A Local’s Guide to Visiting Cefalù, Sicily
Cefalù is a postcard-pretty seaside town on the northwestern coast of Sicily. The Greeks called it Kephaloidion (head) referring to the promontory on which the city sits, while the Arabs called it Gafludi, meaning fortified city abundant in water.
The city is dominated by an imposing, 270-meter high rock formation that rises straight out of the ground behind it. The ancient Temple of Diana, a megalithic site linked to the cult of water, once stood atop the cliff. Nearby is a cistern dating back to the 9th century BC.
Originally a fishing village, Cefalù has more recently become a pleasant holiday resort for those seeking sun and golden sand along the Tyrrhenian coast. Unlike its cousin in eastern Sicily, Taormina, which is constantly busy, Cefalù remains a quiet place even in peak summer months.
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Table of Contents
Why visit?
Where is Cefalù?
How to get here
How long to stay
What to see and do in Cefalù
1-day Taormina itinerary
Why visit
Cefalù is one of the most picturesque destinations in Sicily and its appeal is multifaceted. It offers ancient ruins, a hilltop castle, beautiful beaches, a fortress, and an extremely impressive cathedral, among the finest examples of Sicilian Moorish architecture.
Its honey-hued center is full of character and it has a delightful, charming atmosphere that feels authentic and laid-back.
Unlike major tourist destinations such as Taormina and Erice, which have been subjected to frequent “makeovers” over the years, Cefalù retains all its authenticity. You can even still see see clotheslines strung between buildings and sheets hanging off of balconies.
The city also offers incredible views from its Porto Vecchio (old harbor) onto the little houses that line its crescent-shaped beach. Honestly, when you arrive here, you might just feel like you’ve walked onto a movie set.
Where is Cefalù?
Cefalù is a seaside town on the northewestern coast of Sicily, the largest island in Italy and its southernmost region. It lies just 70 km east of Palermo, and is 850 km south from Rome, the capital of Italy.
Built on a small gulf protected from the winds by a rocky promontory, Cefalù was originally a fishing port, and the town retains its maritime soul.
Its strategic position, not far from Palermo, makes it a perfect base for exploring the Tyrrhenian coast and its fishing villages and beaches, as well as the nearby Madonie Park and its hilltop villages.
How to get to here
Cefalù’s proximity to Palermo makes it a perfect day trip destination, as the city is just 70 km away. Once in Cefalù, the town is very walkable, but there’s also a small electric shuttle bus that runs all over town throughout the day. Each ride will cost you €5 and the shuttle passes by the parking area mentioned above.
By train
The easiest and most convenient way to reach Cefalù is by train, with departures every hour from Palermo Centrale station, starting at 5:00 AM and running until 9:00 PM (in either direction).
The journey takes 45-50 minutes and costs €7 one way. Cefalù train station is a 10-minute walk from the old town.
By car
You can also reach Cefalù by car from Palermo in about 1 hour along the A20 highway. Be aware though: parking in Cefalù can be a nightmare as the historic center is closed to traffic.
If you’ll have a car, you can park along Lungomare Giuseppe Giardina (€1/hour, €5/half-day, €8 all day) on both sides of the road or in a large parking lot. From there, it’s a short walk to the beach or the center of town.
By guided tour
If you want to have a guide with your for your visit to Cefalù, loads of local guides run half-day and full-day tours from Palermo.
Local guide Gaetano does a really fun half-day tour from Palermo, using the train for transportation. For a full-day outing, Giorgio Calò runs a tour by car that combines Cefalù with a visit to the gorgeous hilltop town of Castelbuono.
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How long to spend in Cefalù
Cefalù has a lot to offer between its golden, historic core, a beautiful shoreline, and quite a bit to see and do in its interesting surroundings.
If you plan to use Cefalù as a base from which to explore the surrounding area, you could easily spend two days here enjoying the town, lounging on the beach, and discovering the nearby points of interest.
However, if you’re just passing through or have limited time in your schedule, you could hurry through the city in as little as a few hours. Again, it’s small and all the main sights are within easy walking distance of each other.
To fully soak up its atmosphere, however, the ideal time is a full-day visit, most likely as a day trip from Palermo. With the whole day, you will have the opportunity to visit the town’s attractions, spend a couple of hours on the beach, discover a nearby hidden beauty, and enjoy a gelato on the main piazza while watching the flow of local daily life.
If you plan to stay overnight, I’d recommend staying in the enchanting Victoria Palace, which offers a contemporary design and a pool by the sea. If you’re on a budget, book a room at B&B Agrodolce in the old town and enjoy a sunset over the red-tiled roofs from your tiny balcony.
What to see and do in Cefalù
1. Head straight to the Piazza Duomo and the cathedral
Piazza Duomo is Cefalù’s living room, lined by small trattorias with tables on the square, gelato spots, bars for a pre-dinner aperitif, and the magnificent cathedral with its mountain backdrop. It’s a UNESCO-listed Arab-Norman jewel dating back to 1131.
The Cathedral dominates the skyline of the medieval town. Built in Moorish style with Byzantine, Norman, and Islamic influences, its vaulted ceilings are covered with mosaics depicting biblical scenes and a Cristo Pantocratore (Christ Almighty), one of Sicily’s greatest artistic treasures.
2. Hike La Rocca, the mountain of Cefalù
La Rocca is the mountain that provides the dramatic backdrop to the town. A Norman castle once stood on top of it, as did the Siclian-Greek Temple of Diana, linked to the cult of water. You can still see ruins of both structures.
The short hike to the top (3.5 km round trip and only moderately challenging) offers great views over Cefalù and its coastline. In summer, avoid peak hours, apply plenty of sunscreen, and bring water.
3. Discover the medieval Lavatoio
The Cefalino River crosses through Cefalù, and the Lavatoio (washhouse) was built right atop its waters. Legend says that the river was created by the tears of a nymph crying for a dead lover.
The Lavatoio dates back to the 1600’s and remained intact through to modern times, having been regularly in use until the 20th century. It’s accessed through a staircase leading to the site which is carved out of volcanic rock.
The Lavatoio. Photo: Bjs, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons
4. Enjoy a gelato while strolling around
Antica Porta Terra Gelateria, Santa Lucia Gelateria, Squagghiò, and Gelateria del Lavatoio are the best gelato spots in town. Choose your flavor and enjoy your gelato while wandering through the city.
The best way to discover the authentic soul of the Cefalù is to wander aimlessly through its medieval streets, without worrying about where to turn.
5. Take a refreshing dip in the sea: Cefalù’s best beaches
Cefalù’s golden, crescent-shaped beach lapped by turquoise waters is one of the most popular stretches along Sicily's Tyrrhenian coast. If you want to have space to spread out your towel, sunbathe, and relax on the free beach, get here early to find a spot.
Alternatively, you can rent sun loungers and an umbrella for the day in one of the lidos along the beach (about €35 in high season).
If you prefer a quieter spot, make your way to Bastione di Capo Marchiafava. It’s a viewing platform over the sea, but it offers a couple of swimming holes too.
Just outside the old center lies the most secluded of the nearby beaches, Caldura beach, a stretch of white sand surrounded by cliffs and greenery.
6. Stop in at the Mandralisca museum
Even if the beach is calling you with its siren's song, don't let yourself be distracted yet: stop in at the Museo Mandralista, a small privately owned museum that holds the lifelong collection of Baron Mandralisca: ceramics, pottery, stuffed animals, and paintings.
The most famous piece of art is the Portrait of an Unknown Man by Antonello da Messina. With its smile as intriguing as that of the Mona Lisa, it’s considered one of the most distinctive portraits from the Italian Renaissance.
Your visit here won’t take more than an hour.
7. Taste the local “pasta a taianu” at Tinichité or La Botte
Try the traditional pasta a taianu, served in an earthenware pot and seasoned with fried aubergines, meat, pine nuts, pecorino cheese, and raisin. Traditionally, this dish was prepared in August for the feast of the patron saint Santissimo Salvatore, but you can find it all year-round in every trattoria.
The best spot to try it is Tinchité. Another good spot is La Botte, a family-run restaurant serving tasty Sicilian classics.
8. Walk along Porto Vecchio (the old harbor)
The best spot around for photos is undeniably Cefalù’s old harbor. Stroll along the concrete walkway at sunset and just before, when the area comes alive with fisherman, kids diving off the pier, and others just hanging out watching the world go by while eating a gelato.
The old harbor is very busy but quite atmospheric and it’s the perfect place to admire the town stretching with the last rays of sunshine.
9. Climb the Gibilmanna Sanctuary
This sanctuary, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, is a 10-minute drive from Cefalù and sits on the slopes of Mount Pizzo Sant’Angelo, 850 meters above sea level. It lies within the Madonie Park, surrounded by a beautiful mountain landscape.
It was a Benedictine monastery built around 540 AD, then abandoned and reconstructed several times. Today, it is a mix of Roman, Gothic, and Norman styles.
Be sure to take a close look at the stunning altarpiece made by the Gagini family.
10. Get out into nature in the Madonie Nature Park and its hilltop villages
Just south of Cefalù is the majestic Madonie National Park, dotted with charming hilltop villages such as Geraci, Gangi, and Castelbuono (where you must stop to taste the local manna, an edible tree sap extracted from the manna ash trees).
The Madonie mountains offer wonderful trails amongst the forests, which can be explored by hiking or biking.
11. Explore the Ruins of Himera
The archeological park of Himera is just 20 km away from Cefalù and it’s a wonderful site where you can wander the remains of a 6th-century BC Greek city overlooking the sea. It was once full of temples, theaters, and other buildings that you can still see today.
The Temple of Victory at Himera. Photo: SalvatoreFicarra86, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
12. Learn about the Majolica tradition at Santo Stefano di Camastra
This charming fishing village 35 km east of Cefalù has a great majolica pottery tradition, deeply rooted in the local culture and highly regarded for its quality and exquisite hand-crafted designs.
Explore this heritage by visiting a pottery studio or browsing the town’s ceramic museum housed inside the noble Palazzo Trabia.
13. See contemporary art at Fiumara d’Arte, an open-air museum
This open-air museum along a riverbed (fiumara) was founded by the art patron Antonio Presti. It’s one of Europe’s largest contemporary art parks and the monumental sculptures that you’ll find here are totally immersed in nature.
The art works are quite spread out over a large area, but you can reach each one by car or bicycle. You’ll find the museum on Google Maps by typing in “Fiumara d’Arte”.
Il Laberinto di Arianna artwork at Fiumara d’Arte. Photo: Marcello Di Fiore, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
One-day Cefalù itinerary
Morning
Start your day by climbing up La Rocca, the huge massif overlooking Cefalù. It’s best explored in the morning, when the sun is not yet too hot. From the top, you will have a great view over Cefalù and the surrounding coastline. You’ll also find an ancient temple and the ruins of a Norman castle at the summit.
Head back down and make your way to the center of the city. Begin your tour in the main square, the Piazza Duomo, and check out the imposing cathedral with its stunning mosaics. From there, grab a gelato and get lost in the medieval streets of the old town.
While strolling, stop at the Lavatoio, the 17th century washouse carved into the rock.
By now it will be approaching lunchtime, but before you eat I would suggest heading to the Mandralisca museum, where you can see a wide collection of different types of artworks, the most famous of which is the Portrait of an Unknown Man by Antonello da Messina.
For lunch, try out the local pasta a taianu at Tinchitè.
Afternoon
After lunch, make your way to the town beach and go for a quick swim in the turquoise waters. You could stay at the beach for a few hours i f you wanted to, but if you’ll only be here for a day, I would suggest hopping in the car and heading out to explore some of the nearby attractions:
You could discover the tradition of majolica pottery in the fishing village of Santo Stefano di Camastra, tour the ruins of the once-powerful Greek city of Himera, admire the contemporary sculptures in the Fiumara d’Arte open-air museum, or climb up to the Gibilmanna Sanctuary for a splendid view over the Madonie Park.
Evening
No matter how you choose to spend the afternoon, end the day strolling along Cefalù’s old harbor and catch the city aglow in the gorgeous colors of the sunset.
Aftereards, you can enjoy dinner and a drink in one of the many restaurants in town, or hop back on the train and return to Palermo for an evening in the big city. It just depends on how you’d like to finish your day.
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